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https://europa.eu/youreurope/business/taxation/vat/cross-border-vat/index_en.htm#withintheeusellgoodsanotherbusiness

Private consumers who buy goods in another EU country usually pay VAT in that country. They are not required to pay VAT on the goods a second time in their country. It means that you pay VAT only once when purchasing goods at our shop.

You can pour the next layer after the previous pour has gone through its heat cycle, which is usually around 24 hours. The rule of thumb is if you can make a imprint with your finger nail in the epoxy you can pour again and the epoxy will chemically bond to the previous layer. If you’ve passed that point, sand the surface of the previous layer with a high grit sand paper (180-220 grit). This creates a rough surface for the next layer of epoxy to stick to. Once sanded, clean the surface with an alcohol based cleaner like de-natured alcohol to remove all the dust from sanding. After that, you’re good to pour!

Your may have mixed too much hardener or undermined the product. If you pour the FlowCast thinner than a quarter inch thick then it doesn’t generate enough heat to cure properly either. Heating it up or raising the room temperature will help it cure properly.

The best way to speed up the cure is by adding heat to the area that your project is in. Every 8C can cut the cure time in half. If the epoxy is heated too much, though, it can cure too quickly and may crack or bubble excessively.

Hardeners tend to amber over time when exposed to sunlight, air, or humidity. This doesn’t affect the cure or performance of the product. Only the appearance is affected.

The white or crystallized product may form when resin sits for a prolonged period of time or if it freezes. To remove the crystallization, simply heat the resin to about 120F for an hour or two. This should bring it back to a clear state.

FlowCast requires no extra attention to get rid of air bubbles because it releases them on its own due to its long cure time and low viscosity. If you’re pouring over a surface that may release air during the 3-day curing process then those bubbles may get trapped and ruin your crystal-clear look. A sealer coat is advisable in this case.

UVPoxy is a much thicker and faster curing epoxy, which requires extra attention to bubbles. A torch or heat gun is advisable for popping any surface bubbles, and slow mixing/folding of the product helps to avoid excess air entrapment in the batch. Using a pressure pot works well for all our products.

Possible causes are:

– Low temperature. The epoxy will need more time to cure if your room temperature is lower than the recommended range. Applying heat to the project will help it finish curing.
– Off-ratio mixing. There may have been too much or too little hardener, which directly affects the cure time of the batch.
– Insufficient mixing. You may not have mixed long enough for the resin and hardener to be adequately mixed for a proper cure. Always mix thoroughly for a minimum of 3 minutes.
– Incorrect resin or hardener. Using UVPoxy resin or hardener with FlowCast resin or hardener will cause under curing, overreacting, or other adverse effects to the batch.

Our products are rated with similar heat resistance to any on the market. No epoxies are heat proof or fireproof so leaving a hot pan or item on the surface will leave a visible mark.

Buy the 2:1 ratio for a harder finish. Seal off the edges or surfaces that you’re coating with a thin layer of epoxy prior to pouring. Double and triple check your mold for possible leakage, as this product is super thin and could leak out anywhere. Mix well for several minutes and then let the product sit in the bucket for 10 to 15 minutes to let the bubbles release before pouring. Once poured, keep an eye out for leaks and swirl the metallic pigments (if any) every few hours up until 12 hours after pouring.

Our wood finishing products like UVPoxy and FlowCast are crystal clear once cured. Color can be added with liquid or metallic pigments.

For pours anywhere from a quarter inch to 2 inches thick (at room temperature), where you want a hard finish, you want to use the 2:1 ratio. If you want to pour thicker than 2 inches and to cast/encapsulate items you’ll want the 1:1 ratio, which cures to a semi-flexible finish.

EcoPoxy products do not need finishes. They naturally cure to a high gloss. For a matte finish, you simply sand the surface with 3,000-grit sandpaper. Most oil based finishes should adhere to the epoxy or at least form a film overtop, which can clear it out after sanding. The optimal grit for most finishes is 320 or higher. Proven brands like Osmo, Rubio, and Odie’s oils/waxes have been used with great success by many customers.

No, not yet, but we are working hard toward that. However, we do have some products that exceed 70% bio content.

Our epoxies will not stick to mold-release compounds that are designed for use with epoxy. The smooth side of packing tape, wax paper, tuck tape, and similar smooth surfaces are ideal for creating a non-stick surface.

Smooth-On makes for great mold-making products.

No, not if the layer is less than a quarter-inch thick. Our products are solvent free and designed to coat right onto solvent-sensitive materials without melting or softening them. However, the bond is permanent.

There is no window or time for curing that can be missed, so even if your project has been sitting in a cool room for weeks and hasn’t fully cured, taking it indoors or warming it up will allow for the curing process to complete.

For best results, we recommend you use EcoPoxy pigments with EcoPoxy resins. There are other pigments that are also compatible with our products, but they have a lower concentration. Do your own testing, and go with what works for you.

If stored in a cool dry environment and in sealed containers, our solvent-free products have a near-unlimited shelf life. If the material is more than a year old, you should do a small test to make sure it still performs as expected.

UVPoxy is designed for thin coatings and filling small cracks. It should be used for applications no thicker than a quarter inch. It has a much shorter pot life, which can be as short as 10 to 15 minutes. In contrast, Liquid Plastic is a casting epoxy designed for encapsulation and casting. It has a 3-day cure time and can be poured to any thickness. FlowCast has a semi-flexible finish that is plastic like once cured, as opposed to UVPoxy, which has a harder and more of a scratch-resistant finish.

You can download it from our FlowCast 2:1 product page, or copy and paste the link below:

https://rivertable.eu/en/product/ecopoxy-flowcast-21-deep-pour-epoxy/

You can download it from our FlowCast 2:1 product page, or copy and paste the link below:

https://rivertable.eu/en/product/ecopoxy-flowcast-21-deep-pour-epoxy/

Possible causes are:

– Low temperature. The epoxy will need more time to cure if your room temperature is lower than the recommended range. Applying heat to the project will help it finish curing.
– Off-ratio mixing. There may have been too much or too little hardener, which directly affects the cure time of the batch.
– Insufficient mixing. You may not have mixed long enough for the resin and hardener to be adequately mixed for a proper cure. Always mix thoroughly for a minimum of 3 minutes.
– Incorrect resin or hardener. Using UVPoxy resin or hardener with Liquid Plastic resin or hardener will cause under curing, overreacting, or other adverse effects to the batch.

Our products are rated with similar heat resistance to any on the market. No epoxies are heat proof or fireproof so leaving a hot pan or item on the surface will leave a visible mark.

EcoPoxy products do not need finishes. They naturally cure to a high gloss. For a matte finish, you simply sand the surface with 3,000-grit sandpaper. Most oil based finishes should adhere to the epoxy or at least form a film overtop, which can clear it out after sanding. The optimal grit for most finishes is 320 or higher. Proven brands like Osmo, Rubio, and Odie’s oils/waxes have been used with great success by many customers.

No, not yet, but we are working hard toward that. However, we do have some products that exceed 70% bio content.

For best results, we recommend you use EcoPoxy pigments with EcoPoxy resins. There are other pigments that are also compatible with our products, but they have a lower concentration. Do your own testing, and go with what works for you.

If stored in a cool dry environment and in sealed containers, our solvent-free products have a near-unlimited shelf life. If the material is more than a year old, you should do a small test to make sure it still performs as expected.

Because of the additives in GloPoxy that keep the glow ingredients from settling, the resin may become thick and almost solidified. To soften it, simply warm it up and mix it again. That should return it to its original state.

You can pour the next layer after the previous pour has gone through its heat cycle, which is usually around 24 hours. The rule of thumb is if you can make a imprint with your finger nail in the epoxy you can pour again and the epoxy will chemically bond to the previous layer. If you’ve passed that point, sand the surface of the previous layer with a high grit sand paper (180-220 grit). This creates a rough surface for the next layer of epoxy to stick to. Once sanded, clean the surface with an alcohol based cleaner like de-natured alcohol to remove all the dust from sanding. After that, you’re good to pour!

The best way to speed up the cure is by adding heat to the area that your project is in. Every 8C can cut the cure time in half. If the epoxy is heated too much, though, it can cure too quickly and may crack or bubble excessively.

Hardeners tend to amber over time when exposed to sunlight, air, or humidity. This doesn’t affect the cure or performance of the product. Only the appearance is affected.

The white or crystallized product may form when resin sits for a prolonged period of time or if it freezes. To remove the crystallization, simply heat the resin to about 120F for an hour or two. This should bring it back to a clear state.

Liquid Plastic requires no extra attention to get rid of air bubbles because it releases them on its own due to its long cure time and low viscosity. If you’re pouring over a surface that may release air during the 3-day curing process then those bubbles may get trapped and ruin your crystal-clear look. A sealer coat is advisable in this case.

UVPoxy is a much thicker and faster curing epoxy, which requires extra attention to bubbles. A torch or heat gun is advisable for popping any surface bubbles, and slow mixing/folding of the product helps to avoid excess air entrapment in the batch. Using a pressure pot works well for all our products.

Possible causes are:

– Low temperature. The epoxy will need more time to cure if your room temperature is lower than the recommended range. Applying heat to the project will help it finish curing.
– Off-ratio mixing. There may have been too much or too little hardener, which directly affects the cure time of the batch.
– Insufficient mixing. You may not have mixed long enough for the resin and hardener to be adequately mixed for a proper cure. Always mix thoroughly for a minimum of 3 minutes.
– Incorrect resin or hardener. Using UVPoxy resin or hardener with Liquid Plastic resin or hardener will cause under curing, overreacting, or other adverse effects to the batch.

Our products are rated with similar heat resistance to any on the market. No epoxies are heat proof or fireproof so leaving a hot pan or item on the surface will leave a visible mark.

For a sealer coat, you can get 100 sq. ft. out of a 4L Kit and 50 sq. ft. for a flood coat. Warming up the resin will allow you to get extra coverage out of your kit.

Here are some helpful tips for getting that perfectly smooth finish:

– If you are applying to wood, a sealer coat is highly recommended as wood is porous.
– Warm up the resin slightly to increase flow and to improve mixing and air release.
– After evenly applying UVPoxy, use a torch or heat gun to pop all bubbles that form for the first hour after pouring.
– Work in a dust-free environment or cover your piece with a tarp once finished to keep particles from landing on your surface.

Our wood finishing products like UVPoxy and Liquid Plastic are crystal clear once cured. Color can be added with liquid or metallic pigments.

EcoPoxy products do not need finishes. They naturally cure to a high gloss. For a matte finish, you simply sand the surface with 3,000-grit sandpaper. Most oil based finishes should adhere to the epoxy or at least form a film overtop, which can clear it out after sanding. The optimal grit for most finishes is 320 or higher. Proven brands like Osmo, Rubio, and Odie’s oils/waxes have been used with great success by many customers.

No, not yet, but we are working hard toward that. However, we do have some products that exceed 70% bio content.

Our epoxies will not stick to mold-release compounds that are designed for use with epoxy. The smooth side of packing tape, wax paper, tuck tape, and similar smooth surfaces are ideal for creating a non-stick surface.

Smooth-On makes for great mold-making products.

For best results, we recommend you use EcoPoxy pigments with EcoPoxy resins. There are other pigments that are also compatible with our products, but they have a lower concentration. Do your own testing, and go with what works for you.

If stored in a cool dry environment and in sealed containers, our solvent-free products have a near-unlimited shelf life. If the material is more than a year old, you should do a small test to make sure it still performs as expected.

UVPoxy is designed for thin coatings and filling small cracks. It should be used for applications no thicker than a quarter inch. It has a much shorter pot life, which can be as short as 10 to 15 minutes. In contrast, Liquid Plastic is a casting epoxy designed for encapsulation and casting. It has a 3-day cure time and can be poured to any thickness. Liquid Plastic has a semi-flexible finish that is plastic like once cured, as opposed to UVPoxy, which has a harder and more of a scratch-resistant finish.

Yes we have SDS cards for German market. These are available to download from product category in the shop.
Or you can download it here:
https://rivertable.eu/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Liquid-Plastic-Hardener-26032019-DE.pdf
https://rivertable.eu/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/Liquid-Plastic-Hardener.pdf

Your first step should be determining which medium will be used – based on water (e.g acrylic emulsion) or solvent medium. In first case you must use waterproof luminescent pigments.

Solvent medium recommendation: nitrocellulose lacquer, epoxy resin, silicone.

Good quality solvent base will protect glow in the dark powder from contact with moisture so it has not to be waterproof. Albeit if you’re planning to use phosphor as an ingredient of paint which will be oftenly affected to friction you should consider using waterproof pigment – so even if base of paint will be wiped off waterproof pigment will be still protected from contact with moisture.

Place where glowing pigment will be used is a second important factor. If our luminescent pigment will be permanently affected by direct sunlight or UV light (e.g. as a part of garden furniture) then you should only use only Yellow Green 660.

When you are planning to use pigment indoors or only occasionally outdoor then all other pigments from our offer can be used. Reason of this division is that all other colours than listed above are made by adding to base luminescent pigment a second, this time fluorescent pigment which change glowing colour. This added, fluorescent pigment isn’t resistant to UV light and with time it degrade. If you have any doubts about this point feel free to write to us and describe your application.

Size does matter. Generally bigger particle size of pigment gives stronger and longer glowing.

Of course glowing power is important but you must focus on technological limits of your application. For example if you planning to make glow in the dark paint you should use small or medium particle size pigments – thanks to it you will get smooth and even surface.

Pigments with bigger particle size will give rough surface – also coverage will be worse, but if painted surface will be viewed from distance it may work well and gives better glowing compared to small particle size pigments.

On the other hand large particle size luminescent pigments will be good to use with epoxy resin as a part of filler – layer of resin will hide large particles and surface will be smooth anyway.

You can find detailed luminescence data and a lot of other important informations in technical data sheets available for each glow in the dark pigment.

In some applications pigments may be exposed to very high temperatures – in such cases you should check technical data sheet of luminescent pigment. You will find there information about temperature resistance of each glow powder.

Last but not least, if you are still not sure which luminescent pigment will be perfect for your work feel free to write to us. We will eagerly help you in this matter.

Luminescent pigment is often called glow in the dark powder or phosphor. It’s used to give products ability to self-glow in the dark after exposing to natural or artificial light. Pigments unlike dyes do not dissolve in medium but makes suspension – less or more stable depends on pigment’s particle size and medium viscosity.

Luminescent pigments in contrast to UV pigments not need constant light to work – after charging this product can self-glow up to 12 hours or even longer. Charging and glowing cycle can be repeated countlessly without significant reduction of luminescence properties.

All glow in the dark pigments in our offer are based on strontium aluminate – this is the latest generation of phosphors that has about 10 times better glowing power compared to older generation based on sulphures.

Strontium aluminate is very stable compound – producer declares lifespan over 15 years. Even after 15 years pigment will still glow but it’s glowing power will reduce to level where it can’t be treated as a new product. Still this reduction will be not very significant.

Of course a lot depends on way that we use glow in the dark powder – for example if we mix not waterproof pigment with a bad quality lacquer and after few years due to lacquer damage pigment will be vulnerable to moisture – lifespan will be reduced.

In good light conditions (illuminant D65 which is similar to bright, sunny day) pure pigment needs 15 minutes to fully charge. This time may be elongated due to two factors:

– properties of base that we used to mix with pigment. For example if base isn’t fully transparent or luminescent pigment particles will be covered by thick layer of base, time of fully charging will extend.

– even more important factor is a place where pigment will be used and type of light source. Luminescent pigment placed in deep shadow or charged with weak artificial light source will in fact never fully charge.

If we were unfair or unreliable seller we will write here that pigment will glow for 12 hours and end this paragraph at this point. But this is only a half of truth. Some luminescent pigments in our offer glows even longer than 12 hours but don’t deceive ourselfs – after 6-8 hours glowing strength will be really weak and this effect will be visible only in decent darkness.

After ten minutes since light source is moved out phosphors glows with about 10 times weaker power than during first seconds. This is a feature of this technology – different luminescent pigments from different sources could glow better or worse but overall tendency is the same. After this first 10 minutes of glowing decreasing of luminescence over time isn’t as great as at beginning. Depending on exact pigment type impressive effect could be visible during first 1-3 hours of glowing (the best are yellow-green and aqua-blue pigments and on the other side of scale pink-red and pink pigments have the weakest glowing). It’s important to keep in mind that glow in the dark powders works by their surface – it means that big part of wall painted with luminescent pigment will give us interesting effect even after 8 hours or more.

Maybe the most important factor in this matter is surroundings of luminescent product. The deeper darkness level the better glowing will be seen. On the other hand if there will be some light sources nearby to our product, glowing phenomenon will be less visible or even not visible at all – this may be compared to making phone call during a rock concert. So all in all the best option for luminescent pigment is a place where it can get a lot of light during charging and complete darkness during glowing cycle. The further we move from those conditions the weaker glowing effect will be visible.

Yes. In higher temperatures luminescent pigments glows stronger but in shorter time period – and in low temperatures glowing is weaker but more stable in time. This effect isn’t important indoors where temperature is usually stable but in case of using photoluminescent pigment outdoor we should remember about it.

Luminescent pigments based on strontium aluminate are not toxic, flammable nor radioactive.. It’s worth to mentioning that one of the norms that our pigments fulfill is EN 71-3 – this norm regulate amount of heavy metals in toys which may be swallowed by small kids.

However this pigment are in form of small, hard and rough crystals. Such particles may irritate skin, eyes and airways. Hence during work with raw pigments it’s suggested to avoid making redundant dust and using dust mask, protection gloves and glasses.

There is no one, universal mixing ratio. A lot depends on medium that we will use and choosen technology. In case of plastics pigment addition vary from 5% up to 30% by mass. For resins (especially when we merge resin with wood) this ratio is 20-30%, in case of making glow in the dark paint 15-25% (more when we use bigger particle pigment and less in case of fine particles). Screen printing may need up to 50% addition of glow in the dark pigment. Everytime when we start new project it’s wise to make some test first to determine best addition of glow pigment. Beside of that you can always write to us – we have wide experience in this matter and we are always eager to help our customers.

First of all as transparent as it’s possible. Medium can be coloured with some additional dye but you should remember that less transparent medium you will use – less light will charge pigment and less glowing will be visible by us. So small addition of dye will not harm glowing – as long as medium will allow us to see through. You can always mix luminescent pigment with oryginally coloured mediums (like white wall paint) but this is always a lottery – you never know what dye/pigment producer used and how this substances will affect glowing power. Usually the darker colour of paint is the more it affect glowing – but sometimes even white paint can harm glowing a lot.

If we use not waterproof pigments (which is most popular option) choosen medium must not contain water and protect pigment particles from water and moisture.

Last important thing – we should avoid any lacquers with UV filters – such filters may significantly reduce or even block charging of glow in the dark pigment.

There is the same rules as in case of other common chemical substances – dark and dry place, out of reach of children. Temperature should be from -50C up to 60C. Containers should be tightly closed to protect pigment from moisture.

There is the same rules as in case of other common chemical substances – dark and dry place, out of reach of children. Temperature should be from -50C up to 60C. Containers should be tightly closed to protect pigment from moisture.

This is not good idea because of few reasons:

– Strontium aluminate has relatively high hardness 7,6 in Moh’s, hence there is risk that during milling we will contaminate glow pigment and also harm milling equipment.

– During milling pigment will contact with moisture which will damage it. Also waterproof pigments will lose their protection layer.

– Smaller particle size means weaker glowing.

So it’s suggested to think about the best particle size of luminescent pigment for your application before purchase. In case of any doubts we are always here to help you.

We have already chosen pigments specifically to match resins we sell. Thus you have strong glowing power, UV resistance and relatively small price. Quite big particle size (100-120um = 0,1-0,12mm) isn’t a problem in this case because pigment will be covered my resin layer. But in case of small details (like glow in the dark resin jewelry) or thin layers (under 2mm) it’s better to take smaller particle size pigments (0,03mm)